Monday, October 31, 2005

How to find a good tailor?

You probably recall from the previous article that I bought a Roland Mouret dress from Net-a-porter.com. It was a little big on me, so I had it altered by my tailor Richard. One of my friends said that I was so lucky to find a good tailor, and the dress turned out perfect. The truth is that finding a good tailor is not only about luck.
I tried a couple of tailors including the ones in Louis Boston. The work they did was indeed not satisfying because they didn't understand how my skirt was constructed, nor did I explained. I learned a lesson from that experience: to find a good tailor especially for complex jobs, we have to do our own research and communicate with the tailor very well.

I believe that good tailors are everywhere. We find them by word of the mouth, by citysearch.com, or by the recommendations from the stores where our garments are purchased. Those tailors normally have very good skills which is the key to good alteration.

Most of the designer items are constructed differently from the way the mass-produced clothes are made in order to achieve better fit or express certain design concepts. Unfortunately, most of the jobs taken by the tailors are for mass-produced clothes, so we need to do our homework to find out if the clothes can be tailored and even how. For instance, I looked at the dress closely to find out where the seams were and how it could be taken in. It was not wasting time because some lazy tailors tend to take the easy way out with the sacrifice of the quality. In the case of a skirt, a tailor might just add two darts on the waist to take it in, but chances are, the darts will change the shape of the skirt dramatically. If you want to see a good result, do your homework.

Communication is equally important. Tailors like to know what the customers want. If I tell a tailor I want a skirt to be taken in, the tailor doesn't know how small is too small. By sitting on a chair to try the fit, I am able to tell the tailor the exact fit. Tailors like that because they don't want to risk their work. To make sure the tailor understood the way I wanted the dress to be altered, I showed Richard how the dress was constructed, then I asked him if it made sense to take in from the seam on the center. Richard appreciated what I thought and agreed with me. I also asked him to move the belt higher and added two little strapes inside of the should strap to hold the bra, and he adjusted accordingly. Good communication helped.

Those are my secrets to work with my tailor for the best fit. Of course, the best case is that we never need to have anything tailored and everything fits perfectly. But just incase you want to make the fits perfect, I hope that my tips help a little.



Friday, October 28, 2005

Roland Mouret quits

Only one week after I purchased my first Roland Mouret dress, the designer quit from his company, and his name.

As a self-taught designer, Roland Mouret is famous for the drapes on garments and by the process he designs clothes. Instead of drawing 2D pictures on paper, Roland designs clothes by hanging fabric on women's bodies and letting the fabric drape. Looking at my own dress closely, I realized that it was made of one piece of cloth with folds and drapes. "It was like in the movies, when you would see a couple in bed after making love, and there would be the woman, with just a sheet wrapped around her." Roland explained his concept in an interview with Telegraph Fashion. It is exactly how I feel wearing the dress. It's quiet yet very sexy.

Roland Mouret received financial support from Sharai Meyers five years ago to produce clothes under his own name. As return, Roland Mouret essentially sold his name to his business partner. Once Roland Mouret quits from the company six months later, as the consequence, he will not be able to design clothes under his own name again. It is an extremely sad situation especially for such a talented designer like Roland Mouret. According to Telegraph Fashion, Roland is currently on sick leave suffering from stress.

One of my friends said that she never realized how tough it was to be a fashion designer. The truth is that it is an extremely competitive industry, and often times, the designers who have true talent have to sacrifice to gain financial support. We saw Jil Sander leave, we saw Helmut Lang leave, and now we saw Roland Mouret leave. All of them are talented designers, yet all of them gave up their own names.

Sharai Meyers made a comment that Roland Mouret was always part of a team, and she hoped that the team could continue. Does it work? Will the team able to develop the designer's ideas after the designer departs?

Roland answered, "I was the only designer. If there's something I'm proud of, it's my technique. I do not sketch on paper or think in 2D, I drape on the body, and I evolved that in the studio with technical people, who then made the patterns. Yes, they own the patterns. They can make re-editions. But I do not believe that when women are spending £800-£1,000 on a dress, that they want to buy a copy - of the past." Mrs. Meyers apparently forgot the difference between a designer and a technician.

Feeling very sad about Roland's departure, here I am sharing my favorite Roland Mouret designs with you. I went through all his past collections on style.com, and it was quite a journey to look at how Roland evolved over the past five years. I am sure that Roland Mouret will continue, and no matter where he goes, I will follow.
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FW '00

Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

SS '01
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

FW '01
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

SS '02
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

FW '02
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

SS '03
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

FW '03
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

SS '04
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

FW '04
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

SS '05
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

FW '05
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

SS '06
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review
Roland Mouret - Jing's Fashion Review

Tuesday, October 25, 2005

The year of dresses

I have never been into dresses as I am right now. The spring 2006 runway show offered more dress options than ever. After looking at most of the collections, the strongest impression in my mind is the dresses. With my wedding ceremony on the way, I also get more excuses to purchase nice dresses for events like my bridal shower and the rehearsal dinner.

The first dress I purchased this year is a Marc by Marc Jacobs bubble dress. I like the volume and the rose print, and I was lucky to secure the last piece available in the boutique.

Roland Mouret is a designer whom I always respect very much. He was famous for the draping looks and the couturish details on the garments. I recently purchased a cotton tweed dress from his spring '05 collection that I was not able to secure from the past Louis Boston sale. In fact, I ran to the rest room in my office to try it on right after I received it, and I loved every single stitch of it. The signature collar is so elegant with just the right opening to show off my collar bone. The open back revealed a little skin yet a wide band on the back hides the bra inside. (What a caring detail!) A self belt also defines the curves. I spend ten minutes to study how it was made. It was indeed very simple: the only seam on the dress was on the center of the back, and the only thing the tailor needs to do is to adjust the back seam if any alteration is needed. Brilliant.


Enjoying my new dress, I am thinking ahead for the coming year. To freshen up my look, I will be wearing more dresses for work, for the dinners out, for the weekend shopping spree, and for my bachelorette party. I've picked a couple of dresses from the resort collections as well as the spring runway shows. I will share with you as I believe that year 2006 is the year of dresses.

This Hussein Chalayan dress is a cute yet unique day dress. Nude and sand tone colors are going to be very popular in the coming spring. A little details will definitely make you stand out.
This Louis Vuitton dress is from the resort collection. It reminds me the sea, the spring air, and the beach. Effortless chic.
A perfect dress to carry you from day to night. Alberta Ferretti

If you happen to have a tiny waist, this dress will make you look ultra feminine. I love how the fabric reflects the light. Lanvin by Alber Elbaz

I won't be surprised if the following dresses show on one of the red carpet events. Rochas

The blues are just magical. Roland Mouret

*Picture courtesy of Style.com

Saturday, October 22, 2005

Here comes my new coat

As you could tell from the last article, I was quite frustrated by my coat-searching this winter. When I was wandering in Louis Boston on this rainy Saturday, surprisingly, I found my new coat.

First of all, I was totally impressed by Louis Boston's winter collection this year. The buyer seemed to be more aggressive to me as collections by new designers such as Doo. Ri and Bon & Ging were featured on floor. I also found a couple of coats in my size, which rarely happened to me. As my last effort to find a new coat, I tried on a Bon & Ging coat, three Balenciaga coats, a Roland Mouret coat, and a Doo. Ri coat.

The Bon & Ging coat was loose on me and the material seemed limp. As much as I respect the new design duo, the quality of the coat does not justify the $1,000 + price tag.

While the entire Balenciaga coat collection is breathtaking, only a few people are able to pull it off. The problem for all the military style coats is that they are all boxy. The boxy shape looked cool on runway, but it totally covers the curves women are proud of.

The details on the Roland Mouret coat give it a distinctive couture look. An extra piece on the back drapes from the collar and elongates the entire silhouette. The smallest size available was a British size 8 (American size 2), but the shoulders were too wide on me; the draped piece was also so heavy that it pulled me down. Although that coat was not suitable for me, I highly recommend it to anybody who is above 5'10" because of the tailored body and the fine material.

Compared with all the above coats, the Doo. Ri coat got everything right. The size 2 is true to size, the belt defines my waist, the pure wool material is tightly knitted, and the signature Doo. Ri cape provides extra dimension to the coat and keeps me warm. The sleeves were a little long on me, but Louis Boston offers free tailoring service. The retail price is $1,125, which is quite reasonable for such a nicely made coat. At the moment when I almost gave up my coat search, here came my perfect coat.

Tuesday, October 18, 2005

The opportunity cost of waiting

There was an article in the weekend Wall Street Journal, Escaping the Fashion Trap. The author suggested, "hold off on shopping at the beginning of a season". According to the author, waiting will improve consumers' odds of buying something that will have staying power and waiting can also help consumers to take advantage of the sales and pay less. She stated, "items sold out in boutiques can often still be found online".

My experience was completely the opposite, however. If you follow my blog, you might have read the article THE sale is only two months away. Let me give you an early update on my shopping luck.

The Yohji Yamamoto coat. I went to NYC in the past weekend and I tried the coat on at Barney's New York. It was gorgeous but I decided to wait for the sale. Waiting will save me $1,000. Two days later, however, I was informed that the coat was sold.

I also tried the same coat in the Yohji Yamamoto boutique. For some reason, that coat was bigger than the coat I tried on at Barney’s although both were size 1. I received a phone call today that the tailor was not able to adjust the shoulders due to the complicated construction of the coat. Therefore, I will have to pass because I don't want to pay for $3,000 buying a coat that doesn't fit.

I called a couple of stores. Alan Bilzerian in Boston also sells the same coat, but it was gone months ago and Bergdorf Goodman doesn't carry this specific coat. I am screwed.

I was also fond of the Balenciaga military coats. By the time I visited NYC, all the size 36 coats were sold. Louis Boston didn't even buy size 36. Those designer clothes are rarely available online.

I am paying the price of waiting. I have been dreaming about my statement coat for months and I've got nothing.

Anther important item in my wish list is a Lanvin skirt. First of all, Lanvin has very exclusive distribution; secondly, stores rarely purchase small sizes for somebody like me. The Lanvin racks at Barneys was almost empty when I visited.

I'm not sure if I am able to find the Marc Jacobs short jacket with Peter Pan collar when the sale starts. Frustrated by my shopping luck, I don't even care about that jacket any longer.

I also ordered a top from Chanel. A month has past, and I received nothing. The boutique needed to order the top from the Paris headquarter but the production and shipping have been delayed due to European vacations. I should have ordered it in the trunk show back in May.

If I am lucky, I will be able to find my Ann Demeulemeester clothes, Balenciaga slim pants, and something from Roland Mouret. However, my major acquisition goal is not achieved.

Not being able to purchase your dream clothes is the opportunity cost of waiting. The WSJ author might have a point of waiting for the sale, but for the hot items, you have to place the order right after the runway show. We need to have either sharp eyes to identify the hot items or a sufficient shopping budget to purchase clothes early in the season. I've decided to change my shopping strategy and place my order in trunk shows for the spring '06 season. Considering the opportunity cost of waiting, it is worth it to pay the full price for my dream items.

Tuesday, October 11, 2005

Paris Fashion Show (Finale)

Are the last the best?

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
Lanvin
Louis Vuitton


Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche

Stefano Pilati just offered us another perfect show. The waist was accentuated again by wide woven belts and the waistline remained high. Ruffles and pompoms embellished the clothes and the details were breathtaking. The only problem to me was that they were not very wearable to people like you and me. Who can take that much ruffles during daytime? At the same time, if you are looking for outfits to make you shine in parties, YSL gives you plenty of choice.

























Lanvin
Designer Alber Elbaz’s creation was inspired by the “perfect” Geisha. The shoulders were sharper and the neckties added mannish feeling. The collection somewhat reminded me YSL. Suzy Menkes used the word “hard-edged” to describe some of the clothes. However, Geisha means stiff instead of “heard-edged” to me, and this show gave me the stiff feeling instead. I wish that Alber made more womanly and beautiful dresses in this collection.





Louis Vuitton
Marc Jacobs turned to a completely different direction after his successful FW05 Louis Vuitton show. The clothes are mostly loud and young. Beautiful pieces are here and there, but some of the outfits and bags are too tacky. I am curious to see if they will make any adjustments to the collection before the clothes hit the store. After all, the Vuitton women are elegant and looking for perfection.



Sunday, October 9, 2005

Paris Fashion Show (Part V)

Chanel
Alexander McQueen
Hermes
John Galliano

Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld is an extremely smart designer and businessman. He has managed to reinvent the traditional Chanel look without losing the Chanel root, and as a result, Chanel has attracted more young clientele than people could imagine yet maintained its classic image.

Karl Lagerfeld introduced denim with tweed trims shown with traditional tweed jackets and jackets with bold colors such as red and purple. In my opinion, though, the classic black, white, and gray combination is still the best in the show. Karl especially designed an outfit with prints inspired by the steel work in the Grand Palais. It was also said that Karl gave out books about de Grand Palais to all the attendees of the show. To me, it is a brilliant idea to tie the classic Chanel with such classic architecture.




Hermes
Jean Paul Gaultier had a great season. He showed fresh yet classic clothes for the Hermes collection and he integrated the Jean Paul Gaultier details with Hermes’s accessories and signature orange well. Outfits were shown with the Kelly bags coming with different sizes and colors, mostly yellow and orange. Kelly style belts are also used in numerous outfits to accentuate the waist line. Lots of people have doubts about red, burgundy, and orange, but the combination just looked stunning in the Hermes show. After years of the Birkin hype, here comes the Kelly era.




John Galliano
John Galliano’s fashion belongs to ordinary people. Instead of sending an army of skinny models, John Galliano showed us from the midgets to the overweight and from the happy to the depressed that we see in our daily life. His fashion shined because of his concerns and the emotion brought by the figures in his clothes.



Alexander McQueen
That show was the biggest disappointment in the entire Paris Fashion Week. After the past outstanding collections, Mr. McQueen showed so many tacky short dresses and too much sexuality on stage. We can easily tell how hard he is trying to make his brand profitable. Unfortunately, Alexander McQueen is no Tom Ford, and he was running against what he was good at.